Welcome to Varanasi, India. Varanasi is a city known for its culture, tradition, religious and intellectual beliefs. Yes, Varanasi is one of the most vibrant and interesting places in India. It is as old as time and as bright as heaven. The distinctive atmosphere or quality that seems to surround and be generated by this place has made it the spiritual capital of India. The fragrance of incense, the devotional hymn, the array of shrines, the palaces at water’s edge, the chanting of mantras, the gentle and flawless waters of mother Ganga — all provide a next level attraction to the city. It is a place for a historian, for a snapper, for a melophile, for an artist, for a libertarian, for a foodie, for a loner and for a shopper. It’s a perfect place for you, me and all.
Varanasi is a veritable paradise for the pilgrims who throng the ghats of the Ganges for spiritual reward- either deliverance from sin or attainment of nirvana. So the ‘Ghats’ is undoubtedly the most valuable assets of the place. There are about 87 connected ghats that dot the nearly 10 km arc line of the Ganges riverfront between the confluence of the River Assi in the south and the Varuna in the north. These ghats are the special type of embankments, stone steps that descend steeply towards the river and stretch into a crescent where people can take a holy dip and clean themselves from all evils. It is also a pleasure to walk down the entire stretch of Ghats along the Ganges. These ghats seem chaotic yet serene and beautiful, probably these are the dream place of every shutterbug. Dasaswamedh ghat, Assi Ghat, Tulsi Ghat, Manikarnika ghat, Scindia ghat, etc are some of the famous ghats. While most of the ghats are bathing and prayer ceremony ghats, some are used exclusively as cremation sites. It is believed among the Hindus that the person who dies is cremated here attains salvation. Particularly Manikarnika and Brahma ghats are the holy cremation ground of Hindus where one can encounter death face to face by watching a number of funeral pyres being set to fire in the open and that sight is literally daunting. Not a single day passes when dead bodies are not cremated at Manikarnika, with the number going up every day. It is said that here the red blazing fire of cremation never ceases and that gives this place a very unique, energy centered aura.
Varanasi’s Ganga Aarti ceremony is another electrifying scene, one can witness at ghats. Every evening at 7, an elaborate Ganga aarti ceremony with different rituals, bells, fire, and dance is staged here. This can be combined with a boat ride for an amazing experience. The aarti takes place facing the river where the multi-tiered aarti stands are lit and circled around by the priests, all while being accompanied by chanting or songs that praise Mother Ganga. This ritual is so fascinating that one wants to attend every night while in Varanasi. Reach there early and get yourself a boat with a good spot or a perfect place along the shore, at Dashashwamedh Ghat where the ceremony takes place and which is one of the oldest and important ghats. It is also the most visited Ghat due to its close proximity to Kashi Vishwanath Temple. Kashi Vishwanath Temple, the most famous of them all, located in the heart of the city, dedicated to Lord Shiva has a lingam — the phallic icon of Shiva – that goes back to the time of great epics. On the tower and dome of the temple, the 800kg of gold plating was supplied by Maharaja Ranjit Singh of Lahore in 1835. Since then it is also known as the golden temple. Also, it is considered as the holiest of all the Shiva temples as this temple is mentioned as Shiva’s abode in Skanda Purana.
Varanasi is famous for its antique temples and known as the city of temples. There is history sculpted into its palaces and temples. Well, the next temple in line is one of the most sacred Hindu temples dedicated to the simian-god Hanuman, it is said that Tulsidas (the author of the famous Hindu epic Ramacharitamanas) founded this temple, named Sankat Mochan. Another popular temple is Varanasi’s Bharat Mata temple, probably the only temple in India that is dedicated to the ‘Mother India’. It has a big relief map of India carved in marble. In the city of temples, another relatively new temple is the Tulsi Manas temple built at the place where Tulsidas composed the Ramacharitamanas. Its walls adorn the scenes and verses depicting the exploits of Lord Rama. There are more, 8th century Durga temple, Kaal Bhairav temple, Man Mandir observatory, Nepali Hindu temple and the list is endless.
Visit all the temples, cross the narrow lanes, visit more temples and repeat.
By the way, Varanasi is also the seat of one of India’s biggest universities, the Banaras Hindu University. It is an internationally reputed University with a campus, spanning across 1300 acres, and buildings as majestic as forts. It also houses a few totally amazing sites like the Vishwanath Temple or the VT, the Bharat Kala Bhawan, The Trauma Centre, an Airstrip, a World War 2 fighter plane, and a silver plated Rolls Royce. So, the BHU campus should be a must visit.
Besides temples, ghats, palaces, and BHU, Varanasi is about its intricate streets, food, and market. Take a ride on the human-driven Rikshaws, Walk through the lanes next to ghats, explore the narrow alleys and crowded marketplace on foot, eat and shop. The city is widely famous for its silk saris and ornate jewels having a plethora of colors, detailed pattern and elaborate design. Apart from saris-shawls, carpets, stone inlay work, bangles and idols of Hindu or Buddhist deities are also famous in the markets of Varanasi and can be brought to bring home memories of the holy city. The streets of Varanasi also present the most famous food. The snow cone, roasted peanuts, chat at Kashi chat bhandar, chhola samosa at Limbdi Corner, lassi/thandai, Malaiyo, rabri and Laung Latta at Pehelwaan Lassi, Laddoos of sankatmochan Temple, banarasi paan at Ravidas Gate, Hazmola chai at ghats, sweets from ksheer sagar like jalebis, banarsi kalakand, rabri, et cetera are the famous treat of Banaras and one must have them when in Varanasi.
But in between all the hustle-bustle of the city, find your way to feeling comfortable. Watch the sunshine at ghats and sunset at Ramnagar Fort. Go slow, do nothing at all but sit somewhere along the ghat and just gaze at the faraway horizon where the mighty river meets the heaven and soak up the town as it reveals itself.
Kunwar Hari Om
